There are 5 key features that the SPIN Tools has to offer you.
1) Precision: The flares will always have the same size and will fit perfectly; The swages present a perfect depth and a tight fitting, that will make the brazing easier, reducing the fatigue stress over the coupling area.
2) Quality: The flare/swage will keep the coopers' malleability, which will ensure better couplings overall; the SPIN process also protects the tube from cracking.
3) Time: The SPIN method is much faster than the conventional method.
4) Ergonomy: The drill does the work, making the process as ergonomically as possible. The conventional method usually requires additional manual effort.
5) Simplicity: The SPIN Tools simply requires a power drill/screwdriver to get fastened in. The conventional tools require several parts in addition; dies, yokes, clamps, handles, wings, nuts, rules. These tools also need to be assembled together, manually screwed, manually unscrewed etc.
The SPIN Tools fit into any electric drill or screwdriver, as long as it meets the minimum requirement of power & rotation. The SPIN Tools require good rotation rates, therefore for best results we advice tools with a minimum of 1,800 RPM & 500 watts. These are very common attributes found in a wide range of power tools.
In HVAC, it's not very common to make flares on hard copper, therefore the flaring SPIN Tool was not designed to make flares on hard copper.
We recommend lubricating the SPIN Tool with oil, the same oil you use for the compressor, before performing a flare/swage. This will aid prevent abrasion on the walls of the aluminum tubes.
It's important to pay attention to the cleaning routine according to the manufacturer’s manual as well as maintenance instructions. Soot, impurities or even small metal shavings may occur during the use of either conventional tools or SPIN Tools, due to:
- The way the copper tube is cut;
- The quality of the alloy used in the tubing manufacturing;
- The sharpness of the tube cutter;
- The use of a deburring tool after the cut, etc.
We recommend you clean the tube after removing burrs, regardless of the type of tool that was used. What is important in this case are variables influencing the soot/shavings production, not the type of tool utilized.
A/C manufacturer's recommended cleaning the tube carefully to avoid contamination of the system. The SPIN Tools completely endorses this recommendation.
Also, for further information, check this video: https://youtu.be/hTCoOS0A8FI
Using a deburring tool before making flares with the SPIN Tools is completely optional. This step has been adopted to prevent cracks and to shape the tube when using cold working metal conventional tools.
The SPIN Tools, however, shape the tube through a hot working process in which heat is generated by friction. Our process preserves the copper's ductility, preventing hardening and/or cracking of the flare.
When the copper is kept annealed and malleable, it provides a perfect coupling between the nut and valve (or other accessories), resulting of a much easier and effortless application, when compared with flares made by cold working methods.
Ultimately the use of the deburring tool is required after the flaring is done to remove any kind of soot or metal shavings produced by the use of tube cutters with dull blades and/or lack of a sharp cut.
Any tube that has its diameter increased by expanding, regardless of tools, will suffer a stretching of the material, directly affecting the thickness of its wall thickness.
This action has less to do with the minimal abrasion caused by the contact of the tool against the tubing wall than to a normal stretching caused by the heat making the tube deformable enough to be shaped by the SPIN Tool.
However, some joints (as in the case of the Swage) usually require welding or brazing afterward. The addition of the filling material greatly increases the thickness of the tube wall, increasing the resistance in these areas altogether. In our cyclic-loading test, the brazed areas showed exceptional results regarding material fatigue resistance.
The Swaging Spin Tools are ready to make swages in tubes with wall thickness between 0.8mm and 1mm.
The Flaring Spin Tools are designed to work with copper tubing of 1/4’’, 3/8”” and 1/2’’ with wall thickness of up to 0.8mm, and up to 1.0mm for the 5/8’’ tubing diameters.
*We wish to note that using the Flaring SPIN Tools on tubing with thicker walls than recommended might cause undesirable deformation and assembling issues. Check our Documentation for details.
All cleaning procedures required by manufacturers should be followed regardless the method and/or tools used.
No, there is no need to use clamps or holders. As long as you keep the tube stable enough and a firm grip.
For short-length tubes, we do recommend to make the swage before cutting the tube out of the pancake coil. It will provide a better stability and will require less effort from the user to keep a firm grip on the tube.
For longer-lengths there's no need for clamps or braces of any type.
Usually, a 12V equipment does not meet the minimum suggested power. The key to getting the best results from the SPIN Tools performances is all of the above: good rates, rotation speed, and power. If performed otherwise, it will probably, take longer to make a flare/swage, create soot occurrence inside the tube after shaping it into the desired form.
*We do not recommend using the SPIN Tools with power tools with less than the specified requirements. The SPIN Tools are meant to provide a high quality, fast, effortless flare/ swage, and using the SPIN Tools with drills/screwdrivers that do not meet the suggested requirements will enable the user to get the best results from the SPIN Tools.
Usually, no more than 5 second! It is important for a perfect execution of the flare or expansion that we ensure to push the SPIN Tool inside the tube all way through until the stopper touches the end of the tube. If it takes a lot more time it is probably due to the drill/screwdriver being under the minimum requirements for the use along with the SPIN Tools.
The Flaring Spin Tool creates the exact area of contact between the nut and the valve (or other accessories) because it will adapt itself perfectly to the flare nut once it is wrenched into place. The copper's ductility is preserved by the SPIN method, so when the flare nut is wrenched tight, clutching the coupling together, the walls of the tube will adapt themselves to both the valve and nut, leaving no unfilled space.
In other methods, it's not unusual that the flared end is not perfectly adapted to the nut and valve: if it's too short and leaves a ga and leaks are prone to occur; if it's too long, it'll block the correct passage of the nut.
Yes, the SPIN Tools do not alter significantly the thickness of the tube’s wall. As long as the tubing has the standard specifications for high pressure fluids, nothing changes
Please check whether one or both situation below is occurring:
- Incorrect alignment between the tool and the tube;
- Tube wall thickness different from the recommended for the SPIN Flaring Tools.
- The Flaring Spin Tools are designed to work with copper tubing 1/4’’, 3/8”” and 1/2’’ with wall thickness of up to 0.8mm, and up to 1.0mm for the 5/8’’ tubing diameters. Using the Flaring Spin tools on tubing with thicker walls than recommended may cause undesirable deformation and assembling issues. Check our Documentation for details.
- Also, it may happen that the nut is not standard. Please refer to the documentation in the link for further information, and the video below, for the cases where the nominal wall thickness is 1mm and a slight swelling next to the flare is occurring.
In a first step, the flare made by the Flaring SPIN tool will not have 45°. However, after it is screwed to make the coupling, it will take its final form, matching exactly the degrees created by valve and nut it is sandwiched between (anything between 36° and 47°), and providing a perfect sealing, always.
Watch the following video for an in-depth clarification on the SPIN Flaring Process: https://youtu.be/yErZXE0twWo
The Plumbing Swaging Tool are “heavy duty”, and designed to mold pipes from ½”, ¾” and 1” in a plumbing environment, meaning it will be able to make swages in hard copper used in plumbing. The HVAC Swaging Tools, for other side, were designed to mold sprecision tubes from HVAC equipment, so they’ll work perfectly fine in soft and hard tubes up to 1mm WT.
Due the wall thickness, copper pipes from 7/8’’ and up may take longer to swage with drill with the minimum requirements. Though, after some seconds of heating, making swages in 1” pipes, for instance, will take the same time and with no extra effort from the power tool whatsoever. We really endorse the pre heating method on hard copper pipes.
Watch the video for an example: https://youtu.be/rdvCpSbmTGs